The beautiful scenerical land of Vietnam had witnessed various historical time marks which represented periods of evolution in cultural values, unique etiquettes and gorgeous designs of Vietnamese fashion during each dynasty had contributed in building distinguishable impressions on the women’s day to day outfits.
The significant time points and events which were believed to have significant impact on both the evolution of Vietnamese clothing and the modern time fashion trends:
In 986, Dinh Bo Linh became the emperor, starting the Dinh Dynasty (986-980) and named the country Dai Co Viet.
In 980, Le Hoan became the emperor, starting the Early Le Dynasty (980-1009)
In 1009, Ly Cong Uan became the emperor, starting the Ly Dynasty (1009-1225). In 1054, his descendant Ly Thanh Tong renamed the country to Dai Viet.
Significant feudalism governments including Ngo Dynasty (939-965), Dinh Dynasty (968-980), Early Le Dynasty (980-1009), Ly Dynasty (1009-1225), Tran Dynasty (1226-1400), and Ho Dynasty (1400-1407)
Let’s begin our time journey travelling through different times in Vietnam history to discover the beauty in the evolution of Vietnamese fashion:
[Time: 2000 BC - 200 AC] Hung Vuong Dynasty - Dong Son Culture (Before Han’s influences)
Women during this dynasty usually wear short tops cropped to their belly, with V-neckline, featured with a skinny fit. They usually wear an under-shirt called yếm that covers their breasts with a round neckline, enhanced by embroideries of rice seeds. There were records of tops with short sleeves and square necklines, revealing some shoulders and chest or open back. These styles can possibly be worn like today’s T-shirt or buttoned up on the left side. On the hip would have a piece of large belt with 3 rows of decorative patterns that commonly wraps around the waist.
Patterns carved brass (trong dong) or on brass daggers demonstrated the structurized fashion styling of Vietnamese during this era. This also marks the starting point for Vietnamese cultural values illustrated in current Vietnamese traditional clothes.
The predecessor of modern Ao Dai and the unique features of Vietnamese clothing is hair tied up into bun, shirt buttoned up on the left side (while Chinese’s clothes is buttoned on the right) were considered to have also appeared during this era.
[Time: 11th - 13th Century] Ly Dynasty - The Heyday of Feudalism System
Being in the heyday of the feudalism system, the Ly emperor approved the clothing system consisting of policies and distinctive features to distinguish social ranks. The emperor even demonstrated the spirit of a “self-made” nation by rejecting the fabric imported from China's Tong Dynasty and used the local national fabric instead to produce clothes.
The most outstanding feature on the outfits in this era is the development of patterns to a new level of decorative patterns. Primitive and simple designs were replaced with floral patterns in hooks, spirals, etc. These designs were meticulously hand-embroidered on formal outfits, illustrating the harmonic fusion lifestyle between human and nature.
[Time: 15th - 16th Century] Tran Dynasty to Early Le Dynasty
Being the most memorable Dynasty in the Viet history book, this era is featured with 3 wins during the war against Nguyen - Mong’s aggressions. Due to the ceaseless war and defense against powerful and unassailable invaders, the mentality and patriotic war spirit was perpetually on the minds of Vietnamese even in their daily life that it made a perceivable impact on the perspective and fashion styles of the whole nation.
During the period of 13th to 15th century, the women’s outfit featured a wide-sleeved top, deep neckline jacket, with a strapless undershirt (yếm quây). Until the period of 15th to 16th century, ending the Tran Dynasty and shifting to the beginning of Le Dynasty, the neckline was sewed to be less revealing while the sleeves were designed to be more fitted. However, the colours were seen to be more complex and appealing.
Source: My Thuat MS
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